Hike across Iceland - Raunhafnartangi to Myvatn (Day 1-8)

Day 1, Monday 2. July 2018
Start: Lighthouse at Raunhafnartangi (66.536078/16.026113)
End: Next to road (66.513440/16.143936)
Distance: ~7 kilometers

Starting point at the lighthouse

We spend most of the day traveling. First from Reykjavik to Akureyri by plane, then to Husavik by bus and last with a hired driver, taking us to the starting point at the most northern point at the lighthouse at Hraunhafnartangi. Therefore, we were eager to start hiking and leaving all the logistics behind us. At the lighthouse we meet Hakon, an Icelandic guy. He is a traveling guide and were therefore very curious about our hike. He could also tell us about a historical Viking fight, that had taken place right there.
We were ready to head south at 19.00. Since the sun was up 24 hours a day, we decided to hike for a couple of hours, and perhaps find a better protected campsite, than a lighthouse right by the Greenland Sea. Shortly after setting up our tents, it started to rain.

Day 2, Tuesday 3. July 2018
Start: Next to road (66.513440/16.143936)
End: Lake Beltisvatn (66.331661/16.218160)
Distance: ~25 kilometers

Welcome to tusk land

It rained lightly last night, but the tent was dry this morning. Guess it must be the wind that dried it. We followed the gravel road a couple of hours until we reached a small track, which we would follow south cross country. When researching for this hike. I read that the terrain would be hard to cross, due to a lot of tusks. But it actually wasn't bad at all. The small road turned into a narrow trail, kind of like an animal track. but it was okay. The vegetation was wet after last night’s rain and soon we had wet shoes and socks.
After some time, we came to a hut. When planning the trail at home, I plotted the hut in on the GPS as a way point. Therefore, we were eager to see what it was. We almost instantly decided to take our 1-hour break outside the hut, as it was abandoned and very foul.
Most of the day we had been hiking south with a mountain range to our right. We were aiming towards the Lake Beltisvatn, wanting to camp here for the night, as the lake would provide us with water. Even though I had marked the lake as a way point in the gps, it was hard to find, and this was no small lake. The terrain with all its tusks meant that a hollow spot such as a lake or even a track would be almost impossible to see, even though it was only 50-100 meters away. We finally ended up at the lake and got the tents up and ate some hot food before it yet began to rain.

Camp and dinner

The big Lake Beltisvatn

Day 3, Wednesday 4. July 2018
Start: Lake Beltisvatn (66.331661/16.218160)
End: Next to road and river (66.168433/16.485050)
Distance: ~35 kilometers

The start of today’s route gave us two choices. Either hike west following a path towards a small town named Kopasker. This would mean spending the rest of the day hiking on or along the asphalted road 85. The second option was to hike south about 8 kilometers and cross road 85, to link up with a path that would lead us cross country and further south avoiding a lot of road walking, before ending up at the road 85.

Taking a break shortly before road 85, while the weather is still good

The weather started out fine with sunshine. We decided to hike south. Soon we could see the road 85 which we should cross. Then we should pick up the trail about 1,5 kilometers to our left. The trail was not surprising hard to find. The area we were about to enter was fenced to keep sheep’s inside and away from the road. There was about 100-200 meters from the road 85 to the fence that was situated a bit lower than the road, so we decided to go down to the fence and follow it back west trying to find the trail. Soon we were on track again. The trail took us by some smaller lakes at which we filled our water bottles. We used our water filters since there were sheep’s in the area. Up till now we have not had problems finding water.

The weather changed to constant rain, so we were now tusk hopping in our rain clothes, trying to make progress and getting out of sheep country. We had our sight on some farm buildings on our map. From there we would be able to follow a gravel road reconnecting with the road 85 further south. Our plan worked out fine and after hiking constantly in the rain for hours, we came to the road 85. A big road pipe under the 85 gave us the opportunity to get out of the rain and get some hot dinner in our belly’s.

After dinner we continued about 14 kilometers in rain and increasing wind. We came across a flat spot with good surface between the 85b and a river and decided to make camp at 21.00. Setting up the tents meant holding on to everything until it was secured by a stake and putting lose things like stake bags, right bag in the backpack while setting up the tent.

Day 4, Thursday 5. July 2018

Start: Next to road and river (66.168433/16.485050)

End: Åsbyrgi Campground (66.025/16.496165)

Distance: ~18 kilometers

I woke up to the sound of rain and wind. I guess it must have rained all night, therefore we were not keen to get up and out of our warm bags. We laid in each our tent eating breakfast, talking and waiting for the right moment to get up, as if that would ever come. At 08.30 we were on our way all packed in rain clothes and the wind in the back. We had our luck in the village Lundur, where we could take a break in a small cabin at the campsite. We got into some warm and dry clothes, had something to eat and a cup of warm tea. Due to the cold wind and rain, I had been freezing for the first and only time on the entire trip. I therefore changed to a thicker and warmer merino top base layer for the last part of the day.

Putting on cold and wet socks sucks.

The next couple of hours and final kilometers of the day, we hiked with music in our ears. The road took us down behind a hill and we got a break from the noisy wind. Soon we reached a bridge and crossed the Julkasa river. We were again exposed to the wind that hit us from our right side and almost making us loose our foothold.

Windy wet day on the road

The dinner at Åsbyrgi Campsite was a gift sent. It meant shelter from the rain, burgers with fries and beers and free coffee refill. After checking in at the visitor center, we pitched our tents and got a hot shower. The shower/toilet building even had drying cabinets, so we could start the next day with dry clothes and shoes. Before starting the hike today, we talked about how tiresome it could be to hike on asphalt. But we were surprised to see that some part of the way there was tire tracks along the road. We spend the evening at the warm dinner, drinking coffee and reading. I also checked up on our upcoming food supply. By now the first food parcel must have arrived at the post office in Myvatn. The online track and trace verified that.

Day 5, Friday 6. July 2018

Start: Åsbyrgi Campground (66.025/16.496165)

End: Dettifos wildcamp site (65.815336/16.402501)

Distance: ~35 kilometers

Today was going to be a long day. We were entering the Vatnajökull National Park, which meant only camping on regular campsites. So, we could either camp half way towards Dettifoss at the campsite in Vesturdalur or hike the entire 35 kilometers to Dettifoss. We decided to go to Dettifoss.
All the way you hike on a trail. It starts with a steep climb up a ladder, to take you out of the horse shoe canyon in which Åsbyrgi is placed. Further down the trail you get to see the canyon from above, it is indeed a spectacular sight. We then followed the trail along the Jökulsá river. Here we were meet by a magnificent sight of a lava and basalt landscape molded into weird looking shapes.

We took a small detour to the Vesturdalur campsite to eat dinner and found the campsite boring and insect infested. At one point the trail split two ways. One into the canyon and one along a sketchy mountain side. We first tried to hike along the mountain side, but it was way too dangerous. The trail was just wide enough for on foot and you needed to grab and hold the bushes to keep balance. So, we decided to give the other trail a try. We hiked deep into the canyon in which we meet a small stream to cross, it was no big deal.

Taking a break in the bottom of the canyon. Head nets on because of flies

Later, the trail went back up again, through a little forest with small trees. One the way towards the Dettifoss waterfall we saw some other just as amazing waterfalls at which there were no tourists. We were well into the evening on our hike with not long to go before we would be at the campsite, when another canyon appeared.

The trail went down into the canyon but there was a warning sign about hiking the trail. It suggested that we took a detour around the canyon towards the campsite. Having read about this in Max Nemeths trail journey, were he describes the trail as horrifying the choice was easy, we took the detour.
We arrived at the campsite around 21.00. Until now we were the only ones there. That would soon change. At this campsite there is no rivers to fill water from. Therefore, the park rangers drive out and place water caches at the campsite. We were happy to see that there were plenty of water. After a late dinner, we went to rest. I think it was around 1.30 at night when I heard people talking and cooking gear banging against each other. A quick look outside revealed two tents and some people not taking any consideration towards other people.

Day 6, Saturday 7. July 2018

Start: Dettifoss wildcamp site (65.815336/16.402501)

End: Next to highway 1 - 12km from Myvatn (65.647956/16.72529)

Distance: ~35 kilometers

The big Dettifoss

First thing after breaking camp we bottled 3 liters of water each before hiking down to see the Dettifoss waterfall. The weather was sunny and warm, so we ate breakfast at the nearby parking lot using the benches. We followed the road up to intersection, from here it was cross country the rest of the day. We went straight across the road and up a hill. 
We had our course set for the Lake Elifsvötn. This would provide us with water. It was easy going as we just followed some tire tracks that went parallel with a sheep fence all the way to the lake. Here we provided us with 2 liters of water each.
We then went south east keeping a mountain range to our right. On one of our 1 hour breaks it started to rain, so we continued for a while with rain gear on. As the mountain range came to a hold, we then turned right (west) towards Krafla. We hiked in the bottom of an dried out river and saw footprints off other hikers.

Looking for that opening towards Krafla, in the mountains to our right

Going towards Krafla meant going very much up hill to a plateau surrounded by mountain tops. On our way up the mountain side, an airplane came through the clouds, who had gathered during the last couple of hours. It flew just a couple of hundred meters above us right next to a mountain top. Soon we were up on the plateau, the clouds were hanging low. Initially we wanted to go to the geothermal plant, but we decided to decent south avoiding getting caught and stuck in the clouds. We went through an area with some old lava formation. Soon we came across some new established powerlines and then crossed highway 1. We set camp about 200 meters from the road

Old lava

Day 7, Sunday 8. July 2018

Start: Next to highway 1 - 12km from Myvatn (65.647956/16.72529)

End: Reykjalid - Hild Campsite (65.649243/16.918751)

Distance: ~12 kilometers

Today was going to be a short day so we slept in late and was on our way at 09.30. We followed highway 1 but hiked on a track next to the road. We came by attraction named Hverir. It is a geothermal field with a Mars-like scenery. It is filled with bobbling mud pits and the entire area smells like rotten eggs.

From here it goes up through a narrow mountain pass before the town of Reykjhlid comes in sight. We checked in at the Hild campsite where we had sent our first food parcel to. Usually it is difficult to get a room at the hostel or a cabin without booking in advance. But we were in luck. We got a room with bunk beds for four persons. We asked about the food parcel at the check-in but they didn't know anything about it. They would ask the manager later to hear if she knew. Later they told us that we should stop by the post office the next day to see if it was there. We ate lunch at a local restaurant, took a hot shower and laundered our clothes.

Myvatn showing up

Day 8, Monday 9. July 2018

Zero day at: Reykjalid - Hild Campsite (65.649243/16.918751)

Distance: 0 kilometers

Around 01.00 at night the door to our room opened and woman came in with all her luggage. She scrambled around with all her things making a lot of noise. To see anything, she had left the door open so the light from the hallway could come in.

We had our first zero day and went by the post office to ask about our food parcel. They told us that it was picked up by the owner of the Hild Campsite some days ago. Good news as this meant we sure on getting our food for the next 14 days of hike. It turned out that the package was in the trunk of the owner’s car the hole time.

Picking up that big box of food

In the meantime, we had to change our room for a small 2-person cabin as the other room was pre-booked for today. All happy we went back to our new cabin and repacked our backpacks getting ready to go into the highlands.

Gossamer gear Mariposa with 14 days of food