Day 16, Tuesday 17 July 2018
Start: F-road 26 next to a creek (64.547253/18.417120)
End: F-road 26 next to a river and lake (64.420266/18.802391)
Distance: ~35 kilometer
Due to the constant sunlight 24 hours a day, I felt that I needed a good night’s sleep, so I used my merino buff as an eye cover. In combination with earplugs I slept through the night without waking up. The morning sun was warm and so it was very warm in the tent. We left camp around 08.30. The road was boring hiking, but the snow-covered mountains in the distance and the clear blue lakes was an amazing scenery to enjoy while walking. We met an Czech guy who had been hiking around in Iceland for two months. Now he was heading to Akureyri.
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| Hot desert hiking in shorts |
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| A sign right next to the Versalir hut, with absolutely no gas station around |
Eventually the road came close to a river. The ground was hard sand covered with small stones. We found a good spot, where the stones were flat and pitched our tents. My feet were a bit swollen, properly due to the heat and my right achilles was still hurting a bit.
Day 17, Wednesday 18 July 2018
Start: F-road 26 next to a river and lake (64.420266/18.802391)
End: Road 208 next to lake Hrauneyjalón (64.177365/19.137218)
Distance: ~42 kilometer
In the horizon a wall like ridge came into sight. We could see cars at the top and soon we could see the road going up there. We shortly stopped at a beautiful black beach by the Porisvatn to get water. It was a long and endless climb up the road. As we came up, we found ourselves on a plateau. Behind us was the desert and in front of us numberless mountains, yeah new terrain coming up.
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| Porisvatn |
Now it was time to make a choice. The F26 took a huge detour northwest around a small mountain. But we could see a gravel road going over the mountain and a quick look at our map, showed that we could save many hours by crossing that mountain and avoid hours hiking on asphalt. There was a sign at the start of the gravel road saying 'Staff only' since we were equipped with two staffs each (hiking poles), so we agreed that it was okay ;-)
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| Just out of the shortcut, notice the sign says staff only |
Day 18, Thursday 19 July 2018
Start: Road 208 next to lake Hrauneyjalón (64.177365/19.137218)
End: Landmannalaugar Campsite (63.990136/19.059348)
Distance: ~26 kilometer
We packed up our tents ad left without eating breakfast. It was very warm, and the flies were still here, so we just wanted to get out of here. We were now walking in lower altitude twisting our way in between small mountains. The flies didn't want to go away, and we hoped to gain some altitude, to find some wind that would make the flies disappear. After a couple of hours, we needed a break (the only one this day), so we ate breakfast with our head nets on. The road we followed was the only way into the Landmannalaugar campsite, so we crouched down behind the biggest rock we could find a few meters away from the road, to get some sort of privacy. A lot of cars and buses drove by and suddenly we were the attraction.
Finally, the road went upwards, and we had short moments where there was no flies and we could take of the head nets. As we were getting near the top, the road was not so wide and now we had to deal with big tourist buses coming from both directions. At the top we came by a car parking space where tourists stopped to enjoy the view. From the distance we could see that they weren't bothered by the flies, so we hoped for head net time out. To our disappointment we could stand a few meters from other people without the flies leaving us. Guess it was high time for a bath.
About 5 kilometers from Landmannalaugar we saw a stone formation on a hillside, that looked like Batman... cool, guess he was guarding the entrance to Landmannalaugar.
At the campsite we first stopped by at the information desk/shop and payed for a campsite and bought a cold soda. Then we found a place between all the other tents to pitch our tents. I bought a new towel from the mountain shop, as I had left mine in the Dyngjufell hut. We took a hot bath and later picked up our last food package.
Day 19, Friday 20 July 2018
We packed up our tents ad left without eating breakfast. It was very warm, and the flies were still here, so we just wanted to get out of here. We were now walking in lower altitude twisting our way in between small mountains. The flies didn't want to go away, and we hoped to gain some altitude, to find some wind that would make the flies disappear. After a couple of hours, we needed a break (the only one this day), so we ate breakfast with our head nets on. The road we followed was the only way into the Landmannalaugar campsite, so we crouched down behind the biggest rock we could find a few meters away from the road, to get some sort of privacy. A lot of cars and buses drove by and suddenly we were the attraction.
Finally, the road went upwards, and we had short moments where there was no flies and we could take of the head nets. As we were getting near the top, the road was not so wide and now we had to deal with big tourist buses coming from both directions. At the top we came by a car parking space where tourists stopped to enjoy the view. From the distance we could see that they weren't bothered by the flies, so we hoped for head net time out. To our disappointment we could stand a few meters from other people without the flies leaving us. Guess it was high time for a bath.
About 5 kilometers from Landmannalaugar we saw a stone formation on a hillside, that looked like Batman... cool, guess he was guarding the entrance to Landmannalaugar.
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| Batman? |
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| Yeah more food |
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| Evening scenery right next to camp |
Day 19, Friday 20 July 2018
Zero day at: Landmannalaugar Campsite (63.990136/19.059348)
Distance: 0 kilometers
Woke up about 08.00 ate breakfast in the tent. Spend some time reading before going to the hot spring for about 3 hours. Then sleep and read, sew holes in my socks and eat, eat, eat. Love zero days. We also meet the two French guys from the Botni hut at the mountain mall. They had chosen to take a bus to Landmannalaugar as they didn't have enough time to hike.
Day 20, Saturday 21 July 2018
Woke up about 08.00 ate breakfast in the tent. Spend some time reading before going to the hot spring for about 3 hours. Then sleep and read, sew holes in my socks and eat, eat, eat. Love zero days. We also meet the two French guys from the Botni hut at the mountain mall. They had chosen to take a bus to Landmannalaugar as they didn't have enough time to hike.
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| Nice warm pool |
Day 20, Saturday 21 July 2018
Start: Landmannalaugar Campsite (63.990136/19.059348)
End: Alftavatn Campsite (63.857098/19.229830)
End: Alftavatn Campsite (63.857098/19.229830)
Distance: ~30 kilometers
Got up, packed and had breakfast and coffee in the common tent before leaving. Now we hiked on a marked trail and it was taking us up very high. We caught a glimpse of the campsite before entering cloud covered mountains. According to what we had seen from pictures of the area, we were now hiking in some of the most spectacular surroundings, but the clouds covered our view, so we could not see more than a few hundred meters.
The trail was soon partially covered and replaced with snow and it just kept going up very steep. Then it started raining so we stopped to put the rain gear on. Soon the Hrafntinnusker mountain hut showed up in the clouds and we took a rest to eat. Luckily the rain had stopped.
We had heard that there was a bar/restaurant at the Alftavatn campsite, so we stopped there for the night. The campsite was great, and it was warm and cozy at the bar.
Day 21, Sunday 22 July 2018
Got up, packed and had breakfast and coffee in the common tent before leaving. Now we hiked on a marked trail and it was taking us up very high. We caught a glimpse of the campsite before entering cloud covered mountains. According to what we had seen from pictures of the area, we were now hiking in some of the most spectacular surroundings, but the clouds covered our view, so we could not see more than a few hundred meters.
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| Looking back towards camp |
The trail was soon partially covered and replaced with snow and it just kept going up very steep. Then it started raining so we stopped to put the rain gear on. Soon the Hrafntinnusker mountain hut showed up in the clouds and we took a rest to eat. Luckily the rain had stopped.
We had heard that there was a bar/restaurant at the Alftavatn campsite, so we stopped there for the night. The campsite was great, and it was warm and cozy at the bar.
Day 21, Sunday 22 July 2018
Start: Alftavatn Campsite (63.857098/19.229830)
End: Langidalur Campsite (63.685480/19.513048)
End: Langidalur Campsite (63.685480/19.513048)
Distance: ~30 kilometers
What’s better than starting the day with a river crossing. Well getting to the other side thinking, did I leave my cap at the bar last night?? Luckily, I found it in the lid of my backpack. Later we came across a single shoe lying on the trail. Guess some one must have lost it. But as we did not know in which direction, the owner had gone, it would be stupid to pick it up. Further along the trail we came to another river crossing and met the owner, luckily for her, her husband went back for it.
Today's trail was amazing. We hiked between green moss-covered mountains, crossed canyons by bridges, from where we could see the river flowing deeply below us. Now and then we could see a big glacier to the east. At one point we saw a glacier tongue dipping into the valley.
The last part of today's hike towards camp went through forest of small trees and finally down a steep mountain side. Today we would camp in a river valley surrounded by majestic mountains.
Day 22, Monday 23 July 2018
Distance: ~30 kilometers
Another day with sunshine. That's great, especially because we are going very high up in the mountains today and will get some great views. Pack up, eat breakfast, use the toilet since the route is very crowded, it will be difficult to sneak of and get out of sight. One thing we have had on our mind was crossing the mighty Krossa river. We knew it was a beast and to our luck there was a bridge on wheels going over it. The first stretch after camp, we hiked in what seemed like a dried-out river bed, running parallel with the Krossa river. The river bed is filled with big rocks, so you must watch your steps. The trail is still marked, but the yellow wooden posts play hide and seek in between the rocks.
After crossing the river, we hike through another campsite named Basar. After this it is uphill nonstop for hours. We encounter the steepest terrain I have ever hiked in. It is hot, and we hike only in our merino tops and our pants are rolled up.
After a while we stop to take a picture towards where we came from. This is where I can't find my phone… shit. Think .. I go through my backpack and remember that it is in the pocket of my fleece jacket. But where is my fleece? Well when I used the toilet I took it off and put it over a wooden truss in the toilet room. Great the time is now 09.15 and we left camp at 08.00. Just waisted 1,5 hours. Ove sits down with our backpacks while I head back to camp. The fleece jacket is right where I left it. Crossing that rocky riverbed three times sucked.
Back at Ove we gear up and get back on the trail. We catch up with some other hikers up trail. They ask if I can go and get something for them. Funny haha.
The trail keeps going up. Now the trail runs over a narrow mountain ridge, no more than 1 meter wide. To each side there is a sheer drop for a couple hundred meters before you hit the bottom.
Next up is using the chains hanging from the mountain wall to go higher. The clouds are now gathering.
The snow takes over for a while, then the trail gets a bit muddy and goes down for some meters. I slip and fall landing on my elbow. A quick damage check, luckily nothing is broken.
We choose to stop at a small manned cabin and pay a symbolic amount that allows us to rest inside. We have some food in reserve due to making great time. We enjoy a hot freeze-dried meal and buy a coke from the warden. After crossing in between two glaciers on the top, it is down hill from here. We follow the trail right next to the Skoga river and get to see at least 10 fantastic waterfalls before ending up at the Skogafoss waterfall.
The local bistro lures with burgers and beer. To top it there is endless refill on coffee, so we sit here for a couple of hours and book a hostel for the next day in Reykjavik plus flight tickets back home. We camp at the campsite right next to the Skogafoss waterfall.
Day 23, Tuesday 24 July 2018
Distance: ~30 kilometers
Last day on our hike across Iceland. We have a bus to catch in Vik at 20.30, the only one we could find online, so we get going at 07.30. From what we know, it is going to be asphalt all the way, but almost at the beginning we find a gravel road going parallel to the main road. This takes us about 10 km before hitting the asphalt. We take a break at a parking spot. Then continue along the road. Sometimes it is possible to walk in the low grass next to the road, not bad at all.
There is a lot of busses going in each direction, so we think that there must be more than that one bus leaving from Vik to Reykjavik. As we leave the ring road to get to the lighthouse, we now walk on a smaller road. At one point a car pulls over and the driver ask if we are okay? Yes, we reply, we are just finishing our hike across Iceland.
We know that there is some walking from the lighthouse to Vik. A google check says 20 km. That's about four hours of constant hiking. Which means that we are on a tight schedule. The best way must to try and catch a ride to Vik.
We finish the hike at the lighthouse by tapping it, just like we did at the northern lighthouse. The after a small cheering, we seek out to find a ride to Vik. The third car that pass us, stops and pick us up. After 20 minutes we are in Vik. It turns out that there is a bus leaving in 20 minutes, just enough time to get a coke and some chips for the bus ride.
What’s better than starting the day with a river crossing. Well getting to the other side thinking, did I leave my cap at the bar last night?? Luckily, I found it in the lid of my backpack. Later we came across a single shoe lying on the trail. Guess some one must have lost it. But as we did not know in which direction, the owner had gone, it would be stupid to pick it up. Further along the trail we came to another river crossing and met the owner, luckily for her, her husband went back for it.
Today's trail was amazing. We hiked between green moss-covered mountains, crossed canyons by bridges, from where we could see the river flowing deeply below us. Now and then we could see a big glacier to the east. At one point we saw a glacier tongue dipping into the valley.
The last part of today's hike towards camp went through forest of small trees and finally down a steep mountain side. Today we would camp in a river valley surrounded by majestic mountains.
Day 22, Monday 23 July 2018
Start: Langidalur Campsite (63.685480/19.513048)
End: Skogafoss Campsite (63.528571/19512513)
End: Skogafoss Campsite (63.528571/19512513)
Another day with sunshine. That's great, especially because we are going very high up in the mountains today and will get some great views. Pack up, eat breakfast, use the toilet since the route is very crowded, it will be difficult to sneak of and get out of sight. One thing we have had on our mind was crossing the mighty Krossa river. We knew it was a beast and to our luck there was a bridge on wheels going over it. The first stretch after camp, we hiked in what seemed like a dried-out river bed, running parallel with the Krossa river. The river bed is filled with big rocks, so you must watch your steps. The trail is still marked, but the yellow wooden posts play hide and seek in between the rocks.
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| Rocky river bed, looking towards the mountains we are going to |
After a while we stop to take a picture towards where we came from. This is where I can't find my phone… shit. Think .. I go through my backpack and remember that it is in the pocket of my fleece jacket. But where is my fleece? Well when I used the toilet I took it off and put it over a wooden truss in the toilet room. Great the time is now 09.15 and we left camp at 08.00. Just waisted 1,5 hours. Ove sits down with our backpacks while I head back to camp. The fleece jacket is right where I left it. Crossing that rocky riverbed three times sucked.
Back at Ove we gear up and get back on the trail. We catch up with some other hikers up trail. They ask if I can go and get something for them. Funny haha.
The trail keeps going up. Now the trail runs over a narrow mountain ridge, no more than 1 meter wide. To each side there is a sheer drop for a couple hundred meters before you hit the bottom.
Next up is using the chains hanging from the mountain wall to go higher. The clouds are now gathering.
The snow takes over for a while, then the trail gets a bit muddy and goes down for some meters. I slip and fall landing on my elbow. A quick damage check, luckily nothing is broken.
We choose to stop at a small manned cabin and pay a symbolic amount that allows us to rest inside. We have some food in reserve due to making great time. We enjoy a hot freeze-dried meal and buy a coke from the warden. After crossing in between two glaciers on the top, it is down hill from here. We follow the trail right next to the Skoga river and get to see at least 10 fantastic waterfalls before ending up at the Skogafoss waterfall.
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| Beautiful waterfalls all the way down towards Skogar |
Day 23, Tuesday 24 July 2018
Start: Skogafoss Campsite (63.528571/19512513)
End: Dyrhóley Lighthouse (63.403018/19.130716)
End: Dyrhóley Lighthouse (63.403018/19.130716)
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| Skogarfoss waterfall in the morning before leaving camp |
There is a lot of busses going in each direction, so we think that there must be more than that one bus leaving from Vik to Reykjavik. As we leave the ring road to get to the lighthouse, we now walk on a smaller road. At one point a car pulls over and the driver ask if we are okay? Yes, we reply, we are just finishing our hike across Iceland.
We know that there is some walking from the lighthouse to Vik. A google check says 20 km. That's about four hours of constant hiking. Which means that we are on a tight schedule. The best way must to try and catch a ride to Vik.
We finish the hike at the lighthouse by tapping it, just like we did at the northern lighthouse. The after a small cheering, we seek out to find a ride to Vik. The third car that pass us, stops and pick us up. After 20 minutes we are in Vik. It turns out that there is a bus leaving in 20 minutes, just enough time to get a coke and some chips for the bus ride.
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