søndag den 9. december 2018

Hike across Iceland - Nyidalur to Dyrhóley Lighthouse (Day 16-23)

Day 16, Tuesday 17 July 2018
Start: F-road 26 next to a creek (64.547253/18.417120)
End: F-road 26 next to a river and lake (64.420266/18.802391)
Distance: ~35 kilometer


Due to the constant sunlight 24 hours a day, I felt that I needed a good night’s sleep, so I used my merino buff as an eye cover. In combination with earplugs I slept through the night without waking up. The morning sun was warm and so it was very warm in the tent. We left camp around 08.30. The road was boring hiking, but the snow-covered mountains in the distance and the clear blue lakes was an amazing scenery to enjoy while walking. We met an Czech guy who had been hiking around in Iceland for two months. Now he was heading to Akureyri.

Hot desert hiking in shorts
During the day we managed to get back in to the rhythm of two hours of hiking and a one-hour break. We crossed a bridge next to the Versalir hut and went down to the river to get water. The hut was locked so we continued to find a good campsite.

A sign right next to the Versalir hut, with absolutely no gas station around

Eventually the road came close to a river. The ground was hard sand covered with small stones. We found a good spot, where the stones were flat and pitched our tents. My feet were a bit swollen, properly due to the heat and my right achilles was still hurting a bit.




Day 17, Wednesday 18 July 2018
Start: F-road 26 next to a river and lake (64.420266/18.802391)
End: Road 208 next to lake Hrauneyjalón (64.177365/19.137218)
Distance: ~42 kilometer

Today we heard birds whistling, this means that we are getting closer to the edge of this huge desert and into some sort of vegetation. To top it, the sun was warm... sunshine and bird whistle, what a life. We followed the F-26 which seemed endless.


In the horizon a wall like ridge came into sight. We could see cars at the top and soon we could see the road going up there. We shortly stopped at a beautiful black beach by the Porisvatn to get water. It was a long and endless climb up the road. As we came up, we found ourselves on a plateau. Behind us was the desert and in front of us numberless mountains, yeah new terrain coming up.

Porisvatn
Soon civilization was in sight. We came by a water power plant and then asphalt for the first time since Myvatn.
Now it was time to make a choice. The F26 took a huge detour northwest around a small mountain. But we could see a gravel road going over the mountain and a quick look at our map, showed that we could save many hours by crossing that mountain and avoid hours hiking on asphalt. There was a sign at the start of the gravel road saying 'Staff only' since we were equipped with two staffs each (hiking poles), so we agreed that it was okay ;-)

Just out of the shortcut, notice the sign says staff only
At the other side of the mountain we crossed the F26 coming in on our right side. A road sign said Landmannalaugar 26 km, so tomorrow we would enjoy a hot bath, beer and chips. Time was about 19.00 and we went down to the Hrauneyjalón lake to find a place to sleep for the night. We pitched our tents surrounded of flies by the thousands.



Day 18, Thursday 19 July 2018
Start: Road 208 next to lake Hrauneyjalón (64.177365/19.137218)
End: Landmannalaugar Campsite (63.990136/19.059348)
Distance: ~26 kilometer

We packed up our tents ad left without eating breakfast. It was very warm, and the flies were still here, so we just wanted to get out of here. We were now walking in lower altitude twisting our way in between small mountains. The flies didn't want to go away, and we hoped to gain some altitude, to find some wind that would make the flies disappear. After a couple of hours, we needed a break (the only one this day), so we ate breakfast with our head nets on. The road we followed was the only way into the Landmannalaugar campsite, so we crouched down behind the biggest rock we could find a few meters away from the road, to get some sort of privacy. A lot of cars and buses drove by and suddenly we were the attraction.



Finally, the road went upwards, and we had short moments where there was no flies and we could take of the head nets. As we were getting near the top, the road was not so wide and now we had to deal with big tourist buses coming from both directions. At the top we came by a car parking space where tourists stopped to enjoy the view. From the distance we could see that they weren't bothered by the flies, so we hoped for head net time out. To our disappointment we could stand a few meters from other people without the flies leaving us. Guess it was high time for a bath.
About 5 kilometers from Landmannalaugar we saw a stone formation on a hillside, that looked like Batman... cool, guess he was guarding the entrance to Landmannalaugar.

Batman?
At the campsite we first stopped by at the information desk/shop and payed for a campsite and bought a cold soda. Then we found a place between all the other tents to pitch our tents. I bought a new towel from the mountain shop, as I had left mine in the Dyngjufell hut. We took a hot bath and later picked up our last food package.

Yeah more food


Evening scenery right next to camp



Day 19, Friday 20 July 2018
Zero day at: Landmannalaugar Campsite (63.990136/19.059348)
Distance: 0 kilometers

Woke up about 08.00 ate breakfast in the tent. Spend some time reading before going to the hot spring for about 3 hours. Then sleep and read, sew holes in my socks and eat, eat, eat. Love zero days. We also meet the two French guys from the Botni hut at the mountain mall. They had chosen to take a bus to Landmannalaugar as they didn't have enough time to hike.

Nice warm pool

Day 20, Saturday 21 July 2018
Start: Landmannalaugar Campsite (63.990136/19.059348)
End: Alftavatn Campsite (63.857098/19.229830)
Distance: ~30 kilometers

Got up, packed and had breakfast and coffee in the common tent before leaving. Now we hiked on a marked trail and it was taking us up very high. We caught a glimpse of the campsite before entering cloud covered mountains. According to what we had seen from pictures of the area, we were now hiking in some of the most spectacular surroundings, but the clouds covered our view, so we could not see more than a few hundred meters.

Looking back towards camp

The trail was soon partially covered and replaced with snow and it just kept going up very steep. Then it started raining so we stopped to put the rain gear on. Soon the Hrafntinnusker mountain hut showed up in the clouds and we took a rest to eat. Luckily the rain had stopped.



We had heard that there was a bar/restaurant at the Alftavatn campsite, so we stopped there for the night. The campsite was great, and it was warm and cozy at the bar.



Day 21, Sunday 22 July 2018
Start: Alftavatn Campsite (63.857098/19.229830)
End: Langidalur Campsite (63.685480/19.513048)
Distance: ~30 kilometers

What’s better than starting the day with a river crossing. Well getting to the other side thinking, did I leave my cap at the bar last night?? Luckily, I found it in the lid of my backpack. Later we came across a single shoe lying on the trail. Guess some one must have lost it. But as we did not know in which direction, the owner had gone, it would be stupid to pick it up. Further along the trail we came to another river crossing and met the owner, luckily for her, her husband went back for it.



Today's trail was amazing. We hiked between green moss-covered mountains, crossed canyons by bridges, from where we could see the river flowing deeply below us. Now and then we could see a big glacier to the east. At one point we saw a glacier tongue dipping into the valley.


The last part of today's hike towards camp went through forest of small trees and finally down a steep mountain side. Today we would camp in a river valley surrounded by majestic mountains.


Day 22, Monday 23 July 2018
Start: Langidalur Campsite (63.685480/19.513048)
End: Skogafoss Campsite (63.528571/19512513)
Distance: ~30 kilometers

Another day with sunshine. That's great, especially because we are going very high up in the mountains today and will get some great views. Pack up, eat breakfast, use the toilet since the route is very crowded, it will be difficult to sneak of and get out of sight. One thing we have had on our mind was crossing the mighty Krossa river. We knew it was a beast and to our luck there was a bridge on wheels going over it. The first stretch after camp, we hiked in what seemed like a dried-out river bed, running parallel with the Krossa river. The river bed is filled with big rocks, so you must watch your steps. The trail is still marked, but the yellow wooden posts play hide and seek in between the rocks.

Rocky river bed, looking towards the mountains we are going to
After crossing the river, we hike through another campsite named Basar. After this it is uphill nonstop for hours. We encounter the steepest terrain I have ever hiked in. It is hot, and we hike only in our merino tops and our pants are rolled up. 


After a while we stop to take a picture towards where we came from. This is where I can't find my phone… shit. Think .. I go through my backpack and remember that it is in the pocket of my fleece jacket. But where is my fleece? Well when I used the toilet I took it off and put it over a wooden truss in the toilet room. Great the time is now 09.15 and we left camp at 08.00. Just waisted 1,5 hours. Ove sits down with our backpacks while I head back to camp. The fleece jacket is right where I left it. Crossing that rocky riverbed three times sucked.
Back at Ove we gear up and get back on the trail. We catch up with some other hikers up trail. They ask if I can go and get something for them. Funny haha.
The trail keeps going up. Now the trail runs over a narrow mountain ridge, no more than 1 meter wide. To each side there is a sheer drop for a couple hundred meters before you hit the bottom.


Next up is using the chains hanging from the mountain wall to go higher.  The clouds are now gathering.



The snow takes over for a while, then the trail gets a bit muddy and goes down for some meters. I slip and fall landing on my elbow. A quick damage check, luckily nothing is broken.
We choose to stop at a small manned cabin and pay a symbolic amount that allows us to rest inside. We have some food in reserve due to making great time. We enjoy a hot freeze-dried meal and buy a coke from the warden. After crossing in between two glaciers on the top, it is down hill from here. We follow the trail right next to the Skoga river and get to see at least 10 fantastic waterfalls before ending up at the Skogafoss waterfall.

Beautiful waterfalls all the way down towards Skogar 
The local bistro lures with burgers and beer. To top it there is endless refill on coffee, so we sit here for a couple of hours and book a hostel for the next day in Reykjavik plus flight tickets back home. We camp at the campsite right next to the Skogafoss waterfall.


Day 23, Tuesday 24 July 2018
Start: Skogafoss Campsite (63.528571/19512513)
End: Dyrhóley Lighthouse (63.403018/19.130716)
Distance: ~30 kilometers


Skogarfoss waterfall in the morning before leaving camp
Last day on our hike across Iceland. We have a bus to catch in Vik at 20.30, the only one we could find online, so we get going at 07.30. From what we know, it is going to be asphalt all the way, but almost at the beginning we find a gravel road going parallel to the main road. This takes us about 10 km before hitting the asphalt. We take a break at a parking spot. Then continue along the road. Sometimes it is possible to walk in the low grass next to the road, not bad at all.

There is a lot of busses going in each direction, so we think that there must be more than that one bus leaving from Vik to Reykjavik. As we leave the ring road to get to the lighthouse, we now walk on a smaller road. At one point a car pulls over and the driver ask if we are okay? Yes, we reply, we are just finishing our hike across Iceland.

We know that there is some walking from the lighthouse to Vik. A google check says 20 km. That's about four hours of constant hiking. Which means that we are on a tight schedule. The best way must to try and catch a ride to Vik.
We finish the hike at the lighthouse by tapping it, just like we did at the northern lighthouse. The after a small cheering, we seek out to find a ride to Vik. The third car that pass us, stops and pick us up. After 20 minutes we are in Vik. It turns out that there is a bus leaving in 20 minutes, just enough time to get a coke and some chips for the bus ride.


lørdag den 8. december 2018

Hike across Iceland - Myvatn to Nyidalur (Day 9-15)

Day 9, Tuesday 10. July 2018
Start: Reykjalid - Hild Campsite (65.649243/16.918751)
End: Next to the Sellandafell (65.416288/17.093525)
Distance: ~26 kilometers

Switching to the cabin was great. I slept like a rock. We got on our way at 08.30. We followed the road towards the southern point of Lake Myvatn. The wind was fierce, and it almost threw me into a ditch at one time. We came by a tourist attraction and took a break out of the wind next to a toilet building. We left the asphalt road and would not see asphalt again for another 8 days. Because of the wind we hiked with our sunglasses on all day. 


Sunglasses and wind jacket is needed
The terrain turned grey and dull and we just wanted to get to camp. It was difficult to find a good spot and we ended up pitching our tent in the sand, much to my regret. The lack of big stones made it difficult to keep the stakes in the sand. The loose sand combined with the wind made a couple of my stakes go loose. I went stone gathering and made it work. I noticed that the sand was very sticky, it kind of glued itself to my tent and it was impossible to keep it out of the tent.


The mighty Sellandafell

Day 10, Wednesday 11. July 2018
Start: Next to the Sellandafell (65.416288/17.093525)
End: Botni hut (65.269571/17.068033)
Distance: ~20 kilometers

I woke up at 06.30, one of the tent stakes had loosened so we quickly packed up to get out of the sand. As we were about to go I noticed that I was missing my sunglasses. After the last couple of windy days, I could not imagine hiking through the highlands without sunglasses. I ran through my gear in my mind, nope they could not be there. Thinking back to the day before... We had stopped at a small stream crossing, to get water, a couple of kilometers before camp. Here we had put down our backpacks and my sunglasses had been placed in the sternum strap. We stashed the backpacks and made a mark at the road, so we could find them again. Now we went back towards the small stream to find my sunglasses. One the way we went by places we had been checking out as possible campsites. At the stream crossing there were no sunglasses. On our way back to the backpacks we were still looked for the sunglasses. At one time a glimpse caught my eye, on the road, in the sand right next to Ove’s foot. It was my sunglasses which Ove almost stepped on, what a luck.


The road where we found my sunglasses

In one of our breaks during the day I noticed that there was a hole in one of my socks, I sewed it and began to wonder if the other two pairs would be enough for the last part of the hike.
The terrain now changed into a big endless lava field. The trail towards the hut swayed its way through the old lava.



The contours of the landscape made it hard to see anything further away. It was only because of our map and the GPS, that we knew that the hut was not far away. We were only a few hundred meters from hut before we could see it. At the hut we meet a Frenchman who was hiking from Åsbyrgi. As we came to the hut pretty earl, we decided to lay out our tents and clean them from the black sticky sand. Later in the evening a German guy came and then two other Frenchmen. The clouds darkened, and the rain came but we were warm and cozy in the Botni-hut.

The cozy Botni hut


Day 11, Thursday 12. July 2018
Start: Botni hut (65.269571/17.068033)
End: Dyngjufell hut (65.12499/16.92064)
Distance: ~18 kilometers

Half the cabin was asleep at 06.30 when Ove, Eric and me, packed up our stuff, ate breakfast and started the hike across a big lava field. At first there were yellow markers pointing out our direction. Soon We found it difficult to follow the trail indicated on our map, so we decided to make a compass bearing pointing out a road junction, from where we would follow a trail.
We hiked over and between huge crusts of old lava, using the sandy space in between as a path. Often, we could not see more than just the lava blocks right in front of us. The wind was a bit cold and the wind was making it a bit colder. As we were nearing the junction, we found a big lava rock. Here we held a break using the rock a cover from the wind.


After the break we got a last view back towards the Sjellandafjell, before the terrain lead us downwards. We now followed a gravel road that would take us the rest of the way to the Djungafell hut. The temperature was higher now, and the wind was gone, so we ditched our fleece jackets. On the last part of today’s hike, we meet a big group of hikers, coming towards us from the hut. Lucky for us as this indicated that we properly would arrive at an empty hut.


Dyngjufell valley
We arrived at the hut about 13.30. The hut was situated in a desert valley. We had access to a good water source from a small creek right next to the hut. You will need to cross the creek to reach the hut, but it is not difficult. The huts placement on a high point, gave us a great overview of the route we used to reach the hut. The sun was warm, so we enjoyed our food and coffee on the porch.

Easy access to water right next to the hut
Eric arrived a few hours later and the Frenchmen about 20.00. The lava landscape had taking its toll on both Ove's and my shoes. More particular it was the front part of the sole, where it bends upwards, that had come loose. I guess it must be from all the kicking into and dragging over rocks, when taking a step. Fortunately, Eric had some super glue, so we fixed them up, and hopefully they would last the rest of the hike.


Day 12, Friday 13. July 2018
Start: Dyngjufell hut (65.12499/16.92064)
End: Next to a creek in the middle of nowhere (65.018023/17.271601)
Distance: ~30 kilometers


Left the hut around 07.30 with three liters of water each, as this properly would be the only water source before camp. The first couple of hours we spend hiking out of the valley. On the way we saw some scattered big stones. One of them looked like a snail.


Ove putting on rain gear. Notice the snail stone to the right
Eventually the valley ended, and we were now going upwards. There was snow on the side walls on the last part leaving the valley. Then the rain started and continued for a couple of hours. Today we would reach the F-road 910, then the navigation would consist of just following the road. This might sound boring, but on the other hand, it would give us time to just relax and enjoy the landscape, without thinking about navigating. The map showed that the way out of the valley joined the F-road 910 further southeast. Another option was to go west, cross country for about 5 kilometers and joined the 910 further West. This would save us about 8 kilometers, so the choice was easy.


Our rain gear is a big contrast in the black environment
The rain came to a hold, so we took the opportunity to stop and eat lunch just before reaching the 910. After our short break, it rained again and would continue so for the rest of the day. I think we had been hiking for 25 minutes, when Ove realized that he had lost his 2-liter soft water bottle. The one with the water filter attached. So, he dropped his backpack and went back towards our resting point. I waited 40 minutes in the rain until he was back. It turned out that the water bottle had dropped to the ground, when he was putting on his backpack after our break. We had been hiking for a couple of minutes when a car coming from Dreki passed by. Then an auto camper stopped, and a woman came out. She looked very concerned and asked us if we were okay? Sure, we said, we are just hiking. She asked if we needed anything? and we kindly insured her that we were fine and thanked her for stopping. This was a fine example on one of the reasons why we do hikes like this. When you meet people in such remote areas, we are all our here for the same reason, to enjoy nature and having an adventure. I like to think that this is a common denominator that makes us help people who we don't know.

We came to a small lake/creek which we navigated around and rejoined the road. Then we came to another creek. It was now 17.30, if we were to cross the creek we would need to change into our neoprene socks and crocks. On our map there were about two hours of more hiking to reach another water source. So, we decided to make camp and get out of the rain. We found a perfect place literally speaking next to the creek.




Day 13, Saturday 14. July 2018
Start: Next to a creek in the middle of nowhere (65.018023/17.271601)
End: Campsite at bridge crossing the skjálfandafljót river (64.829271/17.630825)
Distance: ~35 kilometer


Started the day with a water crossing, then we followed the road winding its way through the lava landscape. The sun came through the skies and soon the terrain changed. We were out of the lava for now and found our self in the desert with a good view towards a lower terrain. 



We came across several smaller lakes with green moss on the sides and a beautiful miniature waterfall made of several smaller creeks joining in a pool. We saw so many cars that we gave up counting them. 



Later on, we needed water and found a source a few hundred meters from the road. It was coming right out of the ground, creating a small green oasis. While we were filling up our water bottles, a ranger drove by. He said hello by using his sirens shortly, nice to know that they are there.




The last stretch towards the camp was long and hard. It was warm with no wind and there were flies all around us. We finally crossed the bridge over the skjálfandafljót river and found a small wilderness campsite next to it. This gave us easy access to a water source.


Day 14, Sunday 15. July 2018
Start: Campsite at bridge crossing the Skjálfandafljót river (64.829271/17.630825)
End: Nydailur campsite (64.735065/18.072316)
Distance: ~30 kilometer


Thought that I would had learned it by now. All ways use the biggest rocks you can find to put on the pegs. At 02.30 I woke up. One of the corner pegs in the head end had come loose. The wind was crazy strong and constantly beating on the loose corner, on top of that it was raining. I was out of the sleeping bag faster than you can say 'shit this is not good'. I knew that this was serious as the wind could do severe damage to the tent, when it was so loose. I put the left leg into the corner which stretched the tent fabric, making it more stable. I shouted to Ove to find out if he was okay and to let him know that I had some troubles. He just mumbled and went back to sleep. With one leg on the tent I began to find and put on my wet rain gear. Now I was waiting for the right moment to exit the tent, to fix the problem. After about 15 minutes the wind calmed down and I got out and replaced all the rocks with the biggest ones around. 
After a few hours of more sleep, we were on our way. Today we would reach the Nyidalur hut. This meant that we were about halfway on our Iceland crossing. But to get to Nyidalur we would have to hike around the Tungnafellssjökull glacier. Even though we just needed to follow the F-road 910, it was not going to be easy. At first the temperature was warm. Then we started to climb upwards, then the wind kicked in and we put on our thin wind jackets.

Lunch break at 900 meters altitude 
We did four river crossings. At the deepest one, we were into our crotch. On a day like this we were glad that we brought along the neoprene socks and crocs. Later in the day we meet a Dutch hiker, he had only his leather boots, which he also used when crossing the rivers. This had given him severe blisters causing him to limp.

River crossing coming up
The last river crossing was right before the Nyidalur hut. As we came down to the river, a group of bikers (cyclists) were crossing the river several times to bring across their gear and bikes. They did this with bare feet.


On the other side of the river we walked the last stretch up to the hut. Here we changed into dry socks and shoes. Meanwhile a car had come to a stop right in the middle of the river. Luckily the Icelandic rescue team has an outpost right by the Nyidalur hut, so the car was quickly pulled out of the river.
We decided to camp out in our tents as it was not allowed to hang out in the common room even if you had paid for sleeping in the hut. You were only allowed to use the common room while eating. In my opinion this is not a way to threat guests, neither does it do any good for culture of hikers, bikers etc. Usually a common room is a place where you spend the hours talking and listening to other people about adventures and making new friends. The only good thing was the hot shower and toilet.
The Dutch man was not at the campsite. Guess he must have limped on.


Day 15, Monday 16 July 2018
Start: Nydailur campsite (64.735065/18.072316)
End: F-road 26 next to a creek (64.547253/18.417120)
Distance: ~35 kilometer

We started the day with a water crossing. Now we were hiking on the F-26. The terrain consisted of soft shaped spread hills. There was not much difference between the quality of the F910 and the F26. Only main difference was the traffic, it was right at the point of making us annoyed. We made a quick calculation and agreed that we had only about 100 km left before we would reach Landmannalaugar. If our body and the weather would allow it, we decided to make it in three days. Later in the day we saw a man limping in the distance. At first, we thought that it must be the Dutch guy. But his limp was to the wrong side. It turned out to be a Norwegian guy. After a short chat we hiked on. The last 6-7 km we were hiking while listening to music as the wind was strong and the landscape was boring. 


Up hill in the boring landscape
Due to the earplugs we could not hear the cars coming from behind. A one point we had been hiking with a car behind us for some minutes before noticing it. We apologized to the driver and told him what we were up to. He was surprised, impressed and wished us good luck. We came across a small creek right next to the road and decided to camp there. This time my tent was ready for anything.
During the day I had noticed some pain in my right achilles. Hopefully it would not evolve into something serious.





Hike across Iceland - Raunhafnartangi to Myvatn (Day 1-8)

Day 1, Monday 2. July 2018
Start: Lighthouse at Raunhafnartangi (66.536078/16.026113)
End: Next to road (66.513440/16.143936)
Distance: ~7 kilometers

Starting point at the lighthouse
We spend most of the day traveling. First from Reykjavik to Akureyri by plane, then to Husavik by bus and last with a hired driver, taking us to the starting point at the most northern point at the lighthouse at Hraunhafnartangi. Therefore, we were eager to start hiking and leaving all the logistics behind us. At the lighthouse we meet Hakon, an Icelandic guy. He is a traveling guide and were therefore very curious about our hike. He could also tell us about a historical Viking fight, that had taken place right there.
We were ready to head south at 19.00. Since the sun was up 24 hours a day, we decided to hike for a couple of hours, and perhaps find a better protected campsite, than a lighthouse right by the Greenland Sea. Shortly after setting up our tents, it started to rain.




Day 2, Tuesday 3. July 2018

Start: Next to road (66.513440/16.143936)
End: Lake Beltisvatn (66.331661/16.218160)
Distance: ~25 kilometers


Welcome to tusk land
It rained lightly last night, but the tent was dry this morning. Guess it must be the wind that dried it. We followed the gravel road a couple of hours until we reached a small track, which we would follow south cross country. When researching for this hike. I read that the terrain would be hard to cross, due to a lot of tusks. But it actually wasn't bad at all. The small road turned into a narrow trail, kind of like an animal track. but it was okay. The vegetation was wet after last night’s rain and soon we had wet shoes and socks.
After some time, we came to a hut. When planning the trail at home, I plotted the hut in on the GPS as a way point. Therefore, we were eager to see what it was. We almost instantly decided to take our 1-hour break outside the hut, as it was abandoned and very foul.
Most of the day we had been hiking south with a mountain range to our right. We were aiming towards the Lake Beltisvatn, wanting to camp here for the night, as the lake would provide us with water. Even though I had marked the lake as a way point in the gps, it was hard to find, and this was no small lake. The terrain with all its tusks meant that a hollow spot such as a lake or even a track would be almost impossible to see, even though it was only 50-100 meters away. We finally ended up at the lake and got the tents up and ate some hot food before it yet began to rain.

Camp and dinner
The big Lake Beltisvatn

Day 3, Wednesday 4. July 2018
Start: Lake Beltisvatn (66.331661/16.218160)
End: Next to road and river (66.168433/16.485050)
Distance: ~35 kilometers

The start of today’s route gave us two choices. Either hike west following a path towards a small town named Kopasker. This would mean spending the rest of the day hiking on or along the asphalted road 85. The second option was to hike south about 8 kilometers and cross road 85, to link up with a path that would lead us cross country and further south avoiding a lot of road walking, before ending up at the road 85.


Taking a break shortly before road 85, while the weather is still good
The weather started out fine with sunshine. We decided to hike south. Soon we could see the road 85 which we should cross. Then we should pick up the trail about 1,5 kilometers to our left. The trail was not surprising hard to find. The area we were about to enter was fenced to keep sheep’s inside and away from the road. There was about 100-200 meters from the road 85 to the fence that was situated a bit lower than the road, so we decided to go down to the fence and follow it back west trying to find the trail. Soon we were on track again. The trail took us by some smaller lakes at which we filled our water bottles. We used our water filters since there were sheep’s in the area. Up till now we have not had problems finding water.

The weather changed to constant rain, so we were now tusk hopping in our rain clothes, trying to make progress and getting out of sheep country. We had our sight on some farm buildings on our map. From there we would be able to follow a gravel road reconnecting with the road 85 further south. Our plan worked out fine and after hiking constantly in the rain for hours, we came to the road 85. A big road pipe under the 85 gave us the opportunity to get out of the rain and get some hot dinner in our belly’s.



After dinner we continued about 14 kilometers in rain and increasing wind. We came across a flat spot with good surface between the 85b and a river and decided to make camp at 21.00. Setting up the tents meant holding on to everything until it was secured by a stake and putting lose things like stake bags, right bag in the backpack while setting up the tent.

Day 4, Thursday 5. July 2018
Start: Next to road and river (66.168433/16.485050)
End: Åsbyrgi Campground (66.025/16.496165)
Distance: ~18 kilometers

I woke up to the sound of rain and wind. I guess it must have rained all night, therefore we were not keen to get up and out of our warm bags. We laid in each our tent eating breakfast, talking and waiting for the right moment to get up, as if that would ever come. At 08.30 we were on our way all packed in rain clothes and the wind in the back. We had our luck in the village Lundur, where we could take a break in a small cabin at the campsite. We got into some warm and dry clothes, had something to eat and a cup of warm tea. Due to the cold wind and rain, I had been freezing for the first and only time on the entire trip. I therefore changed to a thicker and warmer merino top base layer for the last part of the day.


Putting on cold and wet socks sucks.
The next couple of hours and final kilometers of the day, we hiked with music in our ears. The road took us down behind a hill and we got a break from the noisy wind. Soon we reached a bridge and crossed the Julkasa river. We were again exposed to the wind that hit us from our right side and almost making us loose our foothold.

Windy wet day on the road
The dinner at Åsbyrgi Campsite was a gift sent. It meant shelter from the rain, burgers with fries and beers and free coffee refill. After checking in at the visitor center, we pitched our tents and got a hot shower. The shower/toilet building even had drying cabinets, so we could start the next day with dry clothes and shoes. Before starting the hike today, we talked about how tiresome it could be to hike on asphalt. But we were surprised to see that some part of the way there was tire tracks along the road. We spend the evening at the warm dinner, drinking coffee and reading. I also checked up on our upcoming food supply. By now the first food parcel must have arrived at the post office in Myvatn. The online track and trace verified that.

Day 5, Friday 6. July 2018
Start: Åsbyrgi Campground (66.025/16.496165)
End: Dettifos wildcamp site (65.815336/16.402501)
Distance: ~35 kilometers


Today was going to be a long day. We were entering the Vatnajökull National Park, which meant only camping on regular campsites. So, we could either camp half way towards Dettifoss at the campsite in Vesturdalur or hike the entire 35 kilometers to Dettifoss. We decided to go to Dettifoss.
All the way you hike on a trail. It starts with a steep climb up a ladder, to take you out of the horse shoe canyon in which Åsbyrgi is placed. Further down the trail you get to see the canyon from above, it is indeed a spectacular sight. We then followed the trail along the Jökulsá river. Here we were meet by a magnificent sight of a lava and basalt landscape molded into weird looking shapes.


We took a small detour to the Vesturdalur campsite to eat dinner and found the campsite boring and insect infested. At one point the trail split two ways. One into the canyon and one along a sketchy mountain side. We first tried to hike along the mountain side, but it was way too dangerous. The trail was just wide enough for on foot and you needed to grab and hold the bushes to keep balance. So, we decided to give the other trail a try. We hiked deep into the canyon in which we meet a small stream to cross, it was no big deal.

Taking a break in the bottom of the canyon. Head nets on because of flies
Later, the trail went back up again, through a little forest with small trees. One the way towards the Dettifoss waterfall we saw some other just as amazing waterfalls at which there were no tourists. We were well into the evening on our hike with not long to go before we would be at the campsite, when another canyon appeared.


The trail went down into the canyon but there was a warning sign about hiking the trail. It suggested that we took a detour around the canyon towards the campsite. Having read about this in Max Nemeths trail journey, were he describes the trail as horrifying the choice was easy, we took the detour.
We arrived at the campsite around 21.00. Until now we were the only ones there. That would soon change. At this campsite there is no rivers to fill water from. Therefore, the park rangers drive out and place water caches at the campsite. We were happy to see that there were plenty of water. After a late dinner, we went to rest. I think it was around 1.30 at night when I heard people talking and cooking gear banging against each other. A quick look outside revealed two tents and some people not taking any consideration towards other people.


Day 6, Saturday 7. July 2018
Start: Dettifoss wildcamp site (65.815336/16.402501)
End: Next to highway 1 - 12km from Myvatn (65.647956/16.72529)
Distance: ~35 kilometers

The big Dettifoss
First thing after breaking camp we bottled 3 liters of water each before hiking down to see the Dettifoss waterfall. The weather was sunny and warm, so we ate breakfast at the nearby parking lot using the benches. We followed the road up to intersection, from here it was cross country the rest of the day. We went straight across the road and up a hill. 
We had our course set for the Lake Elifsvötn. This would provide us with water. It was easy going as we just followed some tire tracks that went parallel with a sheep fence all the way to the lake. Here we provided us with 2 liters of water each.
We then went south east keeping a mountain range to our right. On one of our 1 hour breaks it started to rain, so we continued for a while with rain gear on. As the mountain range came to a hold, we then turned right (west) towards Krafla. We hiked in the bottom of an dried out river and saw footprints off other hikers.


Looking for that opening towards Krafla, in the mountains to our right
Going towards Krafla meant going very much up hill to a plateau surrounded by mountain tops. On our way up the mountain side, an airplane came through the clouds, who had gathered during the last couple of hours. It flew just a couple of hundred meters above us right next to a mountain top. Soon we were up on the plateau, the clouds were hanging low. Initially we wanted to go to the geothermal plant, but we decided to decent south avoiding getting caught and stuck in the clouds. We went through an area with some old lava formation. Soon we came across some new established powerlines and then crossed highway 1. We set camp about 200 meters from the road


Old lava


Day 7, Sunday 8. July 2018
Start: Next to highway 1 - 12km from Myvatn (65.647956/16.72529)
End: Reykjalid - Hild Campsite (65.649243/16.918751)
Distance: ~12 kilometers

Today was going to be a short day so we slept in late and was on our way at 09.30. We followed highway 1 but hiked on a track next to the road. We came by attraction named Hverir. It is a geothermal field with a Mars-like scenery. It is filled with bobbling mud pits and the entire area smells like rotten eggs.


From here it goes up through a narrow mountain pass before the town of Reykjhlid comes in sight. We checked in at the Hild campsite where we had sent our first food parcel to. Usually it is difficult to get a room at the hostel or a cabin without booking in advance. But we were in luck. We got a room with bunk beds for four persons. We asked about the food parcel at the check-in but they didn't know anything about it. They would ask the manager later to hear if she knew. Later they told us that we should stop by the post office the next day to see if it was there. We ate lunch at a local restaurant, took a hot shower and laundered our clothes.
Myvatn showing up

Day 8, Monday 9. July 2018
Zero day at: Reykjalid - Hild Campsite (65.649243/16.918751)
Distance: 0 kilometers

Around 01.00 at night the door to our room opened and woman came in with all her luggage. She scrambled around with all her things making a lot of noise. To see anything, she had left the door open so the light from the hallway could come in.

We had our first zero day and went by the post office to ask about our food parcel. They told us that it was picked up by the owner of the Hild Campsite some days ago. Good news as this meant we sure on getting our food for the next 14 days of hike. It turned out that the package was in the trunk of the owner’s car the hole time.

Picking up that big box of food
In the meantime, we had to change our room for a small 2-person cabin as the other room was pre-booked for today. All happy we went back to our new cabin and repacked our backpacks getting ready to go into the highlands.

Gossamer gear Mariposa with 14 days of food